Building a Chambered LP

[Mr Bones]

here is a quick shot. Color coats may go on Monday.


Don't laugh, but I got a website for Christmas, so I figured I would make a page for my builds and do a weblog. Just a rough draft online right now: http://www.nmguitars.com

[Redfish]

The website looks great. I really like NM 6 and the double cut guitar. Nice work.

[pinefd]

Nick, the back color looks great! And so does the website!

[Mr Bones]

Huge thanks to Alex for fixing all the link to the pics in the thread!!

[drewbertca]

Awesome guitar...I like the site......I wish I had the skills you show......

[BCRGreg]

The site looks good, fella.

[GibsonGuitars119]

nmguitars this is amazing. Your work here has inspired me to re-create my B.C Rich Warlock, because it has fallen apart(Crack on the neck, the nut is gone, chips), Today im going to make the measurments(sorry for bad spelling), and probably trace out a template

[decoy205]

Originally Posted by BCRGreg

The site looks good, fella.

I agree man. You are talented man.

[61LPSG]

Nick, the website is very nice. I like the "soundclips" section. I'm in lust of the one in NM 5 Soundclip, but would be proud to have either one.
Great job, and keep the progress pics coming. I can hardly wait to see the top when it's finished.

[red2rider]

You forgot to show how you get the neck angle for the body. And what degree is it.??
Just curious. I've built some strat bodys but always wanted to do a Lester.
How do you like the tool from S-M for routing the inlays. I'm either going to purchase one or build one in our machine shop. Doesn't look hard to build but 53.$ from S-M aint bad either.

Awesome work. A Real Tradesman.

Great work.

RB.

[Mr Bones]

Originally Posted by nmguitars

Time to get the "thicknessing jig" back out, as I also use this to cut the first angle onto the top. I used 4 degrees, which will now also be the neck angle, and mortice angle. I set it up by raising the back end, while the front end is clamped until I get the 4 degree angle. I use two straight edges and an angle tool to make sure I am at the right angle on each side.

Then proceed to cut the angle up to the point where the fingerboard will end.

Here is the neck angle onto the body. I think the SM dremel holder is nice, although there are a couple of things I would change, the first being round and bevel the sharp edges that scratch anything it is sitting on.

[pinefd]

Hey, Nick...any chance of seeing detailed shots (or plans) of that thicknessing jig? It seems like a handy thing to have in the shop.

And I, too, like the SM dremel holder. I bought the clear plastic dremel brand plunge router equivalent, but there was too much play in it, which made it worthless for detail inlay work.

[Cantu]

Hi Nick,
Nice site.
On the completed guitars the one on the bottom middle, Is that what you would call a spalted maple top?

[BitchBoy]

Very cool post I luv this pad

[FlameThrower]

that was one of the coolest things i've ever seen on a website ! Do you do custom orders ?

[red2rider]

Just think if you had a brigeport mill to work with.

MORE PICS
MORE PICS

[chuftybadge]

this build is totally making me want to do my own , no more quality control issues hehe thanks for sharing very cool

[Mr Bones]

Well, I sprayed the color coats today, but ran into a couple of issues. First the cellulose binding scrapes very differently from the ABS, and was giving me ragged edges on the finish. Second I got the color really close but not perfect to the Pearly Gates color, it needed a little more brown. So, I stripped the top, did something a little different to prep the binding, and with try again tomorrow.

[red2rider]

3M pinstriping tape will give you crisper lines and bend easier if that will help. It's very much like electrical tape.
I also use a razor for scraping with very lite pressure. I keep it at about a 75deg angle.

MORE PICS MORE PICS.

RB/ can't wait to see it finished.

[Mr Bones]

I've thought about using that, how does it handle the tighter curves around the horn??

[pinefd]

Originally Posted by nmguitars

Well, I sprayed the color coats today, but ran into a couple of issues. First the cellulose binding scrapes very differently from the ABS, and was giving me ragged edges on the finish. Second I got the color really close but not perfect to the Pearly Gates color, it needed a little more brown. So, I stripped the top, did something a little different to prep the binding, and with try again tomorrow.

Nick, just curious...how do you go about stripping the top? Do you just wait for it dry, and then sand it down?

[Mr Bones]

When it is that thin (4 coats max) I just use 400 grit and sand it off. and just go through the last stages of finish sanding again. It is thin enough that it all comes off in about 5 minutes.

[Mr Bones]

Here is a teaser. I can't get the color to show right without messing with it more, so here is just a quick shot. Once the amber coats go on, I think the finish will be pretty close.


BTW, ran into a million problem today, and came pretty close to going pete townsend on the guitar! Finally got the binding issue resolved though.

[Roman Rist]

Nick, this might help with the binding,

With cellulose binding I spray it up with a couple of coats of clear first, that way you are scraping lacquer and not the actual binding

BTW, it's looking awesome!

[BCRGreg]

I was just going to suggest that! HAHA!!!

[Mr Bones]

Well the first go round i did that, and I think that may have been part of the problem, that the finish was too thick to scrape well. Today I ran into some weird problem that I've never had before, the brown was not staying in one place, almost like when you try to use ink on metal and it wont stick. The thing is I used the exact same lacquer I used before and it worked fine then. GRRR, so I had to strip the top again, but this time I used thinner and wiped it off, but the stain from the lacquer got into the pores and I couldn't get it out. Not a good day. I should have just stopped after the first goof. I finally got everything back on track, and got a finish on.

[BCRGreg]

Sometimes you have the thin the crap out of your lacquer (in a small jar, double the thinner/lacquer ratio)and hit it with a couple of VERY FINE coats to make the first real color coat stick well. Not enough to really cover, but just dust the wood. Let it dry for an hour or two under lights.

The first actual color coat will hit that and STICK like a car in a bog.

[Mr Bones]

Thanks, for the tip greg, come to think of it my yellow base I mixed a little dark, so I only did the base in one coat when I usually do two.