Building a Chambered LP

[FUS44]

This is fascinating to watch!
Your play by play reminds of that guy who built his own cabin in Alaska(Richard Proenneke, sp?) and made a documentary of it."today I will thatch my roof...."
As cool as his cabin was, this is better!

[Mr Bones]

Not much to add tonight. I spent a long time scraping the binding, an cutting around the nibs. I started out scraping the binding down:

One I scrape it down to flush in between the frets, I use a razor to trim up to the nibs, then use the razor to cut an angle onto the nib. Then to finish off I "burnish" the binding with the dull side of the scraper to smooth everything together. Here is the board bound and scraped ready for me to roll the binding in the morning:

[decoy205]

That Is Friggin Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

[steven21042]

Best part's YET TO COME !

[Mr Bones]

OK, a lot of work this afternoon. I started by cleaning up the neck, by clamping the body to the table and starting with 100 grit, I roll the paper on the neck to smooth out the carve:


Then I touched up the headstock carve into the neck. I am thinking about doing a stinger on this guitar, so I really want to make sure the transition is perfect:

Then cleaned up the heel. I went with a taller heel than usually just because of the added thickness of the body:

then finished sanding the neck:


Then I worked on "rolling" the binding with a combination of a scraper and 400/600 grit paper:

I just go by feel on the rolling, until the neck has a nice played in feel to it.

In the spirit of sanding, I cleaned up the neck joint:


Then worked on finishing the top carve and sanding and scraping it smooth. I sand the top to 800 grit:

[Mr Bones]

Next, I used a triangle file to file the details into the headstock:


Then used a 7/8 forstner bit to drill the jack hole:


Then drilled the switch hole:

Then went to routing the cover plate recesses. I use a piece of plastic to check the depth of cut, then add a fraction:



Then onto drilling the side dot markers. I drill the hole, glue and stick in the rod, then snip it off flush, then scrape and sand:

[Roman Rist]

Originally Posted by nmguitars

Next, I used a triangle file to file the details into the headstock:

Great job, one question, how are you going to deal with the tuners??

[Mr Bones]

Ha ha, good question. It was one of those moments where I had a "brilliant idea" that if I alter my tuner template to bring the tuners in a little I can decrease the side pull on the string at the nut. Well duh! what about the tuners? I have a set of klusons that I test fitted this afternoon, and with a slight mod to the tuner, it barely works out the where the tulip comes clear of the side of the headstock. The other issue is that I just plain don't like the look of it that way.

[Roman Rist]

Looks like a plug and re-drill operation to me

[Mr Bones]

Onto the logo. I got a wild hair around this time last year, and set with a jeweler's saw and cut about 10 headstock inlays in one sitting. I had doing pearl cutting, as I break as many as I cut. Here is the inlay I am using for this guitar:

I trace the outline onto the holly:

then route it out with the dremel:

then glue it in:

then once the glue has dried I sand it flush, the cover with black epoxy, making sure to get any air bubbles out:

[Mr Bones]

Originally Posted by RFR

Looks like a plug and re-drill operation to me

If this guitar were for anyone other than me, I wouldn't have even put the neck on the guitar, and just hung it on the wall as a memento not to think too much. The headstock it fairly narrow as it is, and although it looks like it wouldn't clear, the tulip and ring of a kluson tuner does come completely clear of the headstock. As you are about to see though, this was not the only goof up on this guitar. I had one other fairly major one today . After drilling the switch hole, I ate lunch, came back to drill the pot holes, but forgot to switch out the 1/2" brad point bit for the 3/8" brad point bit, and bam, drilled the neck tone control hole 1/8 too big . I will probably plug and re-drill that hole as that is a pretty easy fix that will never show, and wouldn't show even if I didn't fill it, since the pointer and nut easily cover it. I am really pissed about it since it was a moment's lapse of reason on a guitar that with the exception of the tuner incident has gone really smoothly. Here is the final guitar finish sanded.

Im off to home depot for a 1/2" dowel.

[Mr Bones]

One thing that worked out really well on this guitar, is that by carving the back of the top, I've avoided having to route out behind the pot holes so that a regular shaft pot comes through. I got the thickness at the switch hole, and at the pot holes dead on. With the exception of sanding the epoxy on the headstock, I am just waiting on my pigtail studs to arrive so that I can string this thing up before I start the painting process. I have set the neck at a 4 degree angle which with a 1/2" top is going to get the strings above the top, so combined with the hollowing out, I am really hoping that this will make for a nice jazzier tone that a usual LP. I can't wait to string it up. Steve if you are reading this, send the studs

[Mr Bones]

Originally Posted by RFR

Looks like a plug and re-drill operation to me

If I did want to plug this, how would I get a mahogany plug made? Plug cutter? I don't think I've ever seen a mahogany dowel, especially not in 11/32"

[Roman Rist]

Rough saw a chunk of mahogany , flatten the end, square it up and superglue it to the back side of a crappy drill bit the same size.

On your belt sander, start rounding it. Once you get it close, chuck the bit into your drill press and with a sanding block, sand it to the final size while the drill press is on.

The drill press spins the stock much like if you were using a lathe.

Dowels ANY size and out of any wood!!

[winger]

What craftmanship !! It's coming along really nice.

[pinefd]

Originally Posted by nmguitars

If I did want to plug this, how would I get a mahogany plug made? Plug cutter? I don't think I've ever seen a mahogany dowel, especially not in 11/32"

Nick, the guitar looks great...as usual!

BTW, I love the new avatar!

One thought with regard to plugging the tuner holes...if you're thinking of doing a stinger on the back of the headstock anyway, I wouldn't be too concerned about trying to get a good match between plug and headstock (unless you're concerned about the expansion and contraction differences between dissimilar woods).

[Mr Bones]

I have never made templates for the plastic on an LP, so I spent some time tonight making MDF templates for the pickguard, backplate, and switch cover:



I thought long and hard about the tuners. If the button didn't clear the headstock, I would plug it, but I can live with it as it is since it doesn't impede the function or usability of the tuners. The pot hole on the other hand I couldn't deal with not plugging even though it would cover. I would be worried about if the pot nut loosened at all the pot would move around, and it is just lazy not to fix it. So I took Roman's advice for the plug, except lacking a 1/2" drill bit that doesn't have a hex end on it, and not wanting to wait for glue to dry, I drilled a small hole and threaded a pickup height adjustment screw through it. I cut a piece of maple from the cutoff of the wood that I used for this top so the color and grain would match up and made a plug. In the morning, once the glue has had a chance to dry, I will flush it up and redrill:

[Gear_Junky]

i have never built nor will ever build an instrument, but i just have a curiosity question: it looked like you used a single-piece neck. i remember reading that single-piece necks tend to be weaker (prone to break at the headstock) because the grain of the wood changes where the angle is. I'm just curious - did you go with single-piece because it's easier or maybe the way you cut it the weakness is not an issue.

Love the headstock shape, although i was wondering about the tuners too.

I guess this is a "closed" chambered guitar, no f-holes, right?

I guess for luthiers it's not GAS, but maybe GBS?

So, what pickups are going into it?

[Mr Bones]

No idea on the pickups. I would love to put some WCR Darkbursts in if I can find the $$, or find a used set on ebay. You are right about the single piece neck being weaker, and I use a thicker headplate to help with this, but for all the major specs, I try to stay as close to the burst model as possible, and they all have one piece necks.

[Mr Bones]

I'm going to be trying some WB pickups in this guitar, which is exciting since I've never tired them before. This morning, I flushed an re-drilled the plugged hole. I've never done this before, so it was nice to learn. I then taped off and sprayed two coats of sand and sealer on the top so that I could inspect it for any flaws in the sanding or carving.


I then taped off the binding and covered the top with paper to begin grain filling:



I hate, repeat, hate! grainfilling, but have gotten better at it as I have done more of it. I use an oil based filler, and start with natural and added a lot of red, tobacco brown, amber, and some blue. I knew I wanted a dark filler to cover the seam a bit, but not a completely dark back. I'm pretty happy with the color I came up with. With the light on it the red comes out, and once the lacquer goes on the red will pop a lot more. I will let this dry for at least 4 days, but I am really at the mercy of the weather for when I can start with the lacquer:


I'm not quite sure what I want to do for the burst on this one. Part of me wants to do just a light brown burst, part of me wants to try and do a pearly finish, and part of me wants to do a darkburst. Any suggestions?

[BobbyK]

A light brown burst sounds awesome...

[BCRGreg]

Here's an idea to make the neck sanding easier and more productive. Cut the sheet of sandpaper in half, grab a roll of duct tape and cover the back of the paper with duct tape. This will give you a flexible sheet of sandpaper that you can really bear down with, and you can run up over the curves without the sheet tearing. By using half a sheet, you are concentrating your effort on a narrower area, and you have more control(the edges cause the paper to wrinkle and tear without the duct tape, and the narrower surface area stops the center from lifting as you get to the head or heel).

I have done this for years, and the sandpaper lasts longer this way. Clean the gritty side with a big gum eraser(really!, it works!) and that piece should give you 5 or 6 necks work of work.

The guitar looks great, buddy, I am really impressed. I cannot WAIT to see it completed.

[WBPickups]

Originally Posted by nmguitars

Ha ha, good question. It was one of those moments where I had a "brilliant idea" that if I alter my tuner template to bring the tuners in a little I can decrease the side pull on the string at the nut. Well duh! what about the tuners? I have a set of klusons that I test fitted this afternoon, and with a slight mod to the tuner, it barely works out the where the tulip comes clear of the side of the headstock. The other issue is that I just plain don't like the look of it that way.

Look into Sperzels for the tuner problem. You can order them to compensate the lenth of the shaft. I had to get some for a Firebird once ( all of them extra long ). You can get the long shafts for the G and D string, should work.

[BOBBO]

I have to say that in my history here at MLP , I've never been glued to a tech thread like this before !!! Excellent work so far NM ! Only part i'm not totally diggin is the shape of the headstock , other than that it's a marvelous piece of work !! I really like the logo too !!

[Mr Bones]

thanks for the tips guys and kind words guys. I just ordered some plastic to cut pickguards out of, and the grain filler will be drying for a week or so, so I feel like I need to add some updates, but don't have any for a few days

[BOBBO]

Originally Posted by nmguitars

thanks for the tips guys and kind words guys. I just ordered some plastic to cut pickguards out of, and the grain filler will be drying for a week or so, so I feel like I need to add some updates, but don't have any for a few days

Chill ... It's almost Xmas !!! Happy Holidays !!

[61LPSG]

Geeze, I'm drooling. That neck is whispering to me..." hold me, caress me, squeeze me"

[Mr Bones]

Ok after 5 days for the grain filler to dry I sprayed a few coats of lacquer over the guitar. I sprayed them pretty thinned so that the lacquer would penetrate and bond well. Tomorrow I am going to sand the top back down and spray a few sealer coats.

[Mr Bones]

I might lose the pics for a few days since my .mac account expires on the 28th and I might need to scrounge up some $$ to renew it. I'm still unsure about how I want to do the burst, but I'm leaning toward a faded look with just a light brown bursting. My pigtail studs arrived today, but they sent the wrong ones I think the bushings might be the same though.

[Gear_Junky]

love the pic where it's hanging next to a haystack! It looks as exquisite as a dead lamb on a hook! delish!