Let's See Your Jigs

[TKOjams]

It's really interesting (to me) how everyone has their own vision as to making their builds easier. Creating jigs to speed up the process, or to ensure that the shapes are cut consistently from build to build.

I've seen some wonderful jigs fabricated by some of the members here on MLP. Some amazingly simple, some incredibly complex, but all working flawlessly with perfect results.

This thread has the ability be a great source of reference, not only for someone just starting out on their guitar building journey, but also for the seasoned builders looking to streamline the process.

So, here's your chance to show off your coolest jig creations.

Let's see 'em guys.

[TKOjams]

I built this little jig for my hand drill after screwing up the placement on my side dots. The bit was too small to fit my drill press, so I had to do it free hand.
I will revisit the strap that holds the drill the next time I need to use it.

[bghk6581]

I've posted a couple jigs on here before. A few may look similar to the ones that I've seen here that has been my inspiration for mine.

Fret slotting jig:


Top carve jig:




Pin router:




Fretboard taper jig:


Fretboard radius jig:


Router Planer/thicknesser:


Dremel Inlaying base:


I don't have a picture of a box jig for angle planing but I'll take one next week and post it or if I can find one I'll post it later.

[bghk6581]

Originally Posted by TKOjams

I built this little jig for my hand drill after screwing up the placement on my side dots. The bit was too small to fit my drill press, so I had to do it free hand.
I will revisit the strap that holds the drill the next time I need to use it.

Thats genius! I may make one of those because I always have issues making my side dots level.

[155]

this thread needs to be 100 pages long , when I figure something out ill post it...

[Blackdog]

My jig for drilling the side dots is very simple. It's just a small aluminium bracket for guiding the drill bit.


I align it using one of the two centering marks (one for single dot and one for the twin 12th fret dots) and lock it to the back of the fretboard in the vise.
It produces very consistently aligned holes.

[Shepherd]

Fretboard radius

DSC00442.jpg

Sanding block

DSC00452.jpg

Neck shaping

DSC00497.jpg

Fret saw

DSC00336.jpg

[Blackdog]

I have shown this already in the 3xLP build thread, but it may be worth posting it here too.
I made this jig to cut the tenon, with the appropriate angled shoulders, on the neck blanks before tapering. It works in basically three steps.
First the tenon is rough cut with the band saw.


Then the neck blank is mounted centred in the jig, using the fretboard surface as the reference plane, and locked in place with the two bolts. I made the jig for two different angles, 4.3* for the LPs and 5.2* for the ES builds.


Using the table router with a short template follower bit I cut the two shoulders following the reference of the jig. If the neck blank is properly centred in the jig the two sides will be perfectly symmetrical.


Then the final step is to use a simple template and the table router to cut the rest of the tenon and the taper of the neck.

[TKOjams]

I was waiting for you to post that one, Blackdog. I was hoping you'd find this thread.

[Blackdog]

Originally Posted by TKOjams

I was waiting for you to post that one, Blackdog. I was hoping you'd find this thread.

Now that I think of it, the same idea (with some care even the same jig) could be used as a miter box to guide the blade of a gents or japanese saw and get a similar result.
Personally, I tend to favour router jig ideas.

[Claymore]

Some cool jigs out there, keep them coming!
This weekend I needed to radius some fretboard blanks.
I spent 30 seconds with the radius block and sandpaper and decided I would build a jig. Lots of options out there. I settled on this one, based on a PDF available here: http://www.eguitarplans.com/Fretboar..._Jig_11x17.pdf.

I liked the design because you can easily change the radius (I build acoustics and electrics) and it can do compound radius.
The concept is pretty cool - the 1/4" pin on the side panel sets the radius, the router stays centered and the fretboard is what moves.
To use it, you just lower the bit to the center of the fretboard, then move the router along 1/4" at a time, moving the fretboard back and forth to create the radius.
I made some modifications - the side panels I increased to 6.5" from 4"" - at 4" the width is not wide enough to shape a 2.75" fretboard blank (!).
I also added a base...(?) And I use double-sided tape to hold the fretboard so I can shape the whole board.....

[lowatter]

Originally Posted by Claymore

Some cool jigs out there, keep them coming!
This weekend I needed to radius some fretboard blanks.
I spent 30 seconds with the radius block and sandpaper and decided I would build a jig. Lots of options out there. I settled on this one, based on a PDF available here: http://www.eguitarplans.com/Fretboar..._Jig_11x17.pdf.

I liked the design because you can easily change the radius (I build acoustics and electrics) and it can do compound radius.
The concept is pretty cool - the 1/4" pin on the side panel sets the radius, the router stays centered and the fretboard is what moves.
To use it, you just lower the bit to the center of the fretboard, then move the router along 1/4" at a time, moving the fretboard back and forth to create the radius.
I made some modifications - the side panels I increased to 6.5" from 4"" - at 4" the width is not wide enough to shape a 2.75" fretboard blank (!).
I also added a base...(?) And I use double-sided tape to hold the fretboard so I can shape the whole board.....

I noticed your acoustic guitar side bending jig in the background closet. Do you have a steam box too? When I attempted my 1st acoustic build years ago I used a simple small free-standing element heater with forced air to keep the jig hot while clamping the sides down. Worked great for my 1st and last attempt. After I formed the cut-away I splintered the horn like 1st timers would do on some pretty choice rosewood and got soo frustrated that I just sold the rest of the guitar parts on the "bay" and vowed that I'd let the real luthiers tackle such a feat. I may make another slab solid bodied scratch-build someday but that's the extent of what I'll take on.

[Claymore]

Nope, definitely no steam box.
Actually I find the less moisture the better - Taylor bends without any added moisture whatever. I lightly spritz with distilled H2O, wrap in parchment paper then spring steel slats, and a silicone heat blanket on top. Once that sucker hits 300F the bending takes about 30 seconds...

[TKOjams]

I just finished this one yesterday. It's for routing the board for inlays.(the fretted board is just for show)

[pinefd]

I love these kinds of threads! In fact, I started a similar one over at TGP a few years ago, which is worth checking out: Calling Out to Builders…Favorite Jigs, Templates, Tips & Techniques - The Gear Page

Now, what I'd love to see...for those of you who do multiple guitars at a time...are your jigs for locating and aligning your bridges, which is one of the (if not THE) most critical parts of any build.


Frank

[TKOjams]

This is a piece of junk!!



And we've all seen the one Stew Mc has for $50+.

I just finished this one up about 5 min. ago out of "stuff" I had laying around the shop. Cost? $0.00. The Dremel collar is glued in with epoxy.





I can't wait to try it out.

[geoffrod]

Originally Posted by TKOjams

This is a piece of junk!!



And we've all seen the one Stew Mc has for $50+.

I just finished this one up about 5 min. ago out of "stuff" I had laying around the shop. Cost? $0.00. The Dremel collar is glued in with epoxy.





I can't wait to try it out.

i want to try to make one of these as well.
i have some perspex laying about, and some gutter bolts, one thing i thought might make it quicker to adjust the depth is using wing nuts, no need for spanners then, adjust it on the run??? just a thought.
cheers
geoff

[TKOjams]

Originally Posted by geoffrod

i want to try to make one of these as well.
i have some perspex laying about, and some gutter bolts, one thing i thought might make it quicker to adjust the depth is using wing nuts, no need for spanners then, adjust it on the run??? just a thought.
cheers
geoff

No wing nuts in the shop.
I will be getting some though.

[Claymore]

I use this home-made saddle-matic for aligning the bridge location.
I center the bridge first by holding a straight-edge down the side of each edge of the fretboard. Then I use this - there is a notch at the far block for the 12th fret - butt it up to the nut, reverse and mark the bridge location from the set screws, which are set out 2/64" treble and 5/64" bass for 25" scale. The screw pitch is 32tpi so one full turn is 1/32".

[TKOjams]

Originally Posted by Claymore

I use this home-made saddle-matic for aligning the bridge location.
I center the bridge first by holding a straight-edge down the side of each edge of the fretboard. Then I use this - there is a notch at the far block for the 12th fret - butt it up to the nut, reverse and mark the bridge location from the set screws, which are set out 2/64" treble and 5/64" bass for 25" scale. The screw pitch is 32tpi so one full turn is 1/32".

Love the saddle-matic, I use it on every one of my builds

[pshupe]

I thought I already posted this, but I may have forgotten! I have a friend who has a metal shop and laser cuts 1/8" stainless. I asked him to quote me on this template for inlay work. He said $30, and I said YEAH! So here it is. I haven't used it yet but should work pretty well.


Cheers Peter.

[pinefd]

Wow, Peter, that's awesome! That would be perfect for use on a pin router! Can he do custom orders?


Frank

[pshupe]

yep - these are custom orders - they are small enough he just tacks them on to a larger job and charges me a small amount. This one was $30 and the headstock one he said is around $40.

Cheers Peter.

[Frails]

You guys should organize a drop box fund to have some of these jigs made out of 6061-T6 alum. I'd be happy to model them up and dimension them out in Pro-E or SolidWorks once you can all agree on a design. I don't build guitars but was a Mechanical Engineer in my former life. So I can assist on facilitating the designs into a more production state....fine tune the design, proper pinning techniques, tolerances and such. Getting them fabricated would be a breeze.

[j.six]

Originally Posted by pshupe

yep - these are custom orders - they are small enough he just tacks them on to a larger job and charges me a small amount. This one was $30 and the headstock one he said is around $40.

Cheers Peter.

That's pretty neat indeed. Do you use it with a pin router, or are they oversized enough to use with a bearing/bushing setup?

Sully

[pshupe]

I haven't used it yet, actually. It kind of snuck up on my. I sent it to the guy to get a quote and then needed to make a decision quick whether to have it cut for the price. It is the exact size of the inlays. I have a dremel with a drill press attachment and expect to use a 1/8" carbide bit. It should work OK. If I had more time I would have oversized the outline to use a 1/8" shaft but a smaller cutting head. I am looking at getting one cut for the rectangular custom inlays as well so will test out to see the exact offset for the smaller bit.

Cheers Peter.

[pshupe]

frails - yeah that is a good idea. It would be much lighter than the 1/8" stainless. I work for an architect so I do a fair amount of drafting and developed all the drawings for all of my templates. It is a great way to figure stuff out. I frankly don't know how anybody builds a guitar from just buying the Stew Mac drawing and to a lesser extent the Bartlett Plans. The Bartlett Plans are very good but I did a lot of work in addition to them to figure out almost every cut. It is better to learn on the computer screen than on the router with a $100 piece of maple.

Cheers Peter.

[bruce bennett]

My headstock angle jig for table saw. looks crude and actually is crude, but works very nicely.





my fretboard glue up I-Beam.... its been milled flat on both sides to within .030 across the total of 7 feet. plus it is mounted in such a way that it can be rolled over to glue 4 necks on each side.





my top carveing jig.





my method of carveing .. nearly everything! necks, bodies, belly and arm scarfs.





fine tuning my carves..




obvioulsy I use Normal templates and such..but in reality.. pretty much the rest of it was by hand and eye.

[j.six]

That top carving radius jig is genius. Love it!

[dazzypig]

I've saved this thread to my bookmarks, so many great ideas here.

I've just found some small workshop space and I think I'm going to build that free-standing fretboard radius jig posted at the top of the thread, that seems like a brilliant idea!

Do you think there's any way to include slotting on the same jig?