Let's build an "ES" guitar, and I might have questions

[zpfled]

P-90s all the way!

[emoney]

Ok, P90's it is! I love P90s, and I think they will compliment this guitar, if I ever get it
finished, lol. My dad's little "health issue" just put me behind the 8 ball, so-to-speak, but
tomorrow I'm back in the shop. I still don't have binding so I'm debating within myself
about going "faux binding" on the body, and maybe having a go at trying to make
Maple binding for the neck. Since this Cocobolo is so "orange", I think some of that left
over figured Maple I've got, left natural of course, would really look sharp. Not sure I can
pull it of, but we'll find out tomorrow I suppose.

I can always "change my mind". That's the neat part of building these things on your
own.....only gotta please yourself.

[aaron17]

phew! thats lots of carving. how long does it take?

[emoney]

Originally Posted by aaron17

phew! thats lots of carving. how long does it take?

About twice as long as carving a top. Seems like a "simple answer", but in
reality you're carving the underside in the same manner as you do a normal
top, just backwards. It's not as long nor as hard as it may seem. You do
need to proceed with just a smidgeon more caution, however, as you don't want
to get so thin that you sand through.

[emoney]

Ok, this is technically a "cheat" update, as it doesn't necessarily apply to the ES. However,
I'm waiting on binding and frets to come in, and since I've been gone for the past 10 days
I was itching to get in the shop. All this pent-up "bob the builder" in me, caused me to
be rather industrious and I've gone fully monte on the Maple Les Paul mentioned before.

Since I'm trying my hand at the "faux binding" on the body, and I prefer a bound fretboard
to an unbound one, I had a little dilemma; you can't really use plastic binding on the
fretboard and not the body. So, what's a guy to do but make both his inlay dots and
binding out of Maple, right?


Technically the markers are Aspen as I used a 3/8" dowel to cut them. Pretty simple
procedure that way: cut the dowel into markers on the bandsaw, drill out a hole and
glue them in.

Left them proud of the board and they'll be sanded down flush with the radius block to
finish. I want to try the "Super Glue Finish" idea when that time comes. As for the
"binding", that hasn't been as easy. Cut a couple of thin, but oversized, strips on the
bandsaw and then spend a couple of hours getting one side sanded flush. I did this
by hand, as they're too thin to put to the belt sander, I think. I trimmed my fretboard
to allow me to keep these at .050" when they're finished. After glue dries, then I can
use the powered sander, ,as the fretboard itself will support them once they're in place.
I figure I'll just draw a pencil line on both sides and sand up to that line.

I think the Maple binding, as well as the "dots", really accent this orange cocobolo.
Now the question I have (which I think I'll start a thread on), is can I do "nibs" with wood?

[Riku]

That's all I can say at the moment.

I've always loved ES guitars, I want to build one with a P-90/Humbucker combo and a faded tobacco burst. This looks fantastic!

One question of curiosity, the binding on the guitar. I'm curious as to how you get maple to be suitable binding? Maple in thin form is flexible, but I didn't think it'd be flexible enough to serve as a binding on a guitar, especially with two cutaways

But all curiosity aside, that cocobolo looks gorgeous Well done

[emoney]

Actually, Riku, this particular update is just binding on this fretboard, that's going on an
all-Maple Les paul. For the ES, I'm waiting for regular, run-of-the-mill ABS binding.
However, I do know that guys use Maple for guitar bodies as well. You can find tons of
info and even videos that show the process, on line. I would think you'd need heat and
maybe even need to cut curfs on some of the more aggressive areas.

[emoney]

I'm so fascinated with my wood binding and dot marker inlays, I thought everyone would
love to see more pictures of the practically completed process. Right?
My "glue station";


You know, you can buy a rather large bag of rubber bands for pretty much nothing.
Perfect for attaching binding, even if it is made from scrap wood.
Now, let's thin down those sides, shall we?



All the dot markers are nice and evenly flush with the board. Oh...and radiused. I'm getting
really good at this stuff, ain't I? Basically, I measured .055" (extra .005 for sanding),
drew a straight line on both sides and then sanded up to the line. Pretty simple.
I've decided just to take my fret slots all the way to the edge of the board and file them
down just like one would do an "unbound board". Like so;

I dunno fellas, if I could figure out how to make frets from coat hangers, I'd NEVER need
StewMac.
Thanks for looking.

[Archer]

Now why didn't it ever occur to me to use rubber bands to hold binding on while it dries? Answer: I'm a maroon.

Looking good money.

[Playpunk]

This thread makes me want a woodie.

Wait. That's not what I meant at all!

nice work as usual

[emoney]

Okey, dokey my parts have finally arrived. Now we can get this puppy back on schedule.
Tonight's update is a rather miniscule one, but hey, it's something so get off my back.

Got my binding, frets and inlay material in;

This time I was smart and ordered double of what I needed;


As the pictures show, I'm using block inlays for this build. I figured I'd already done Dots
and Trapezoids and something about these big boys seems to fit with these, so here I
am. Since my wife took every last ounce of energy out of me with her Lemonade Stand
mandate, I probably won't get too far, but at least the engine is refueled.

[emoney]

You know what? I've come to the conclusion that these block inlays are tougher than other,
non-symmetrical ones, like the traps. It took me a couple of hours last night to just do this;


While it's safe to assume that pretty much all inlays are within the same tolerances, or
lack thereof, for alignment, something about these blocks cause even .002" to be
a glaring mistake. Hmph, and here I thought it would be easier on me.

Goes to show you what I know. Like the old saying goes, "Anything worth doing, is worth
doing right.....unless you can purchase it already done for similar money".

[emoney]

Just because I'm talking to myself here, I think I'll start complimenting myself too.
For instance, "Great job Emoney on these inlay routes";

"Dang, man, you are getting a LOT better at these";

Oh stop...you're making me blush. You know I'm too humble to take compliments like
those.
If you haven't considered the Dremel Trio for small routing then you're missing
the boat. It was absolutely the perfect tool for doing inlays. Used an
up-spiral bit that came with the "kit" and it routed a very smooth and tight
pocket. Plus (and I know the danger so don't mention), it has a "trigger lock"
that comes in very handy for situations like these. The router base is spot
on and it's both twice as quiet and 1/2 the weight.

Anyway, I FINALLY (woohoo!!!) got the top and inside sanded down to the 1/4" range
as the binding will now cover the E-holes;


Figured I'd let them sit in the holes overnight and maybe that will "pre-shape" them. If
you notice, I'm using the really thin binding on these cut-outs because while I want them
bound, I don't necessarily want that to be a focal point of the top, as my plan is to
go with a vintage burst and I'd rather the color be the center of attention.

Oh, and of course my humility and all. I did order 2 different binding widths for this and
settled on the thin stuff. I'm hoping it's one of those details that people notice after
a little while, if you know what I mean.

[emoney]

I did get my neck blank cut, at least. This time, I made absolutely sure it would meet
the body at the 19th fret;


Inlays are ready to be glued in. Just didn't have the energy to finish last night, and we
all know how easily these things get "out of line";


This blank wasn't as light as the other one, so I'm going to be looking at this body this
weekend with a fine toothed comb to try to find places to shed excess weight. This
guitar is supposed to end up being my "old reliable" and that means it's gotta be light
enough to work for my 47 year old shoulder & back. I almost wish I could find a way to
secure the top to the body so I could cut my neck pocket and pickups, then remove it
again to see areas of potentional "lessening". At the moment, however, I don't trust it
to not move under the router and that's not worth the risk. If anyone happens by, and
has a suggestion, I'm all ears......

[BlemMusic]

This is coming out awesome! I want to build one of these next but I'll probably change the design again to be more like the guitar I'm building now. I think it would be kind of cool to try it. Where did you get the plans for this?

[SG Lou]

Looking GREAT !

[emoney]

Originally Posted by BlemMusic

This is coming out awesome! I want to build one of these next but I'll probably change the design again to be more like the guitar I'm building now. I think it would be kind of cool to try it. Where did you get the plans for this?

Blem, a fellow forumite put these together, LC100. There's a thread around
here somewhere he made as he was developing them. He called it his "LC933". If you want them, I can send them to you.

[BlemMusic]

Originally Posted by emoney

Blem, a fellow forumite put these together, LC100. There's a thread around
here somewhere he made as he was developing them. He called it his "LC933". If you want them, I can send them to you.

That would be great!

[BlemMusic]

I just figured out that the one that I actually wanted to emulate is the Gibson ES 175. I'm guessing everything is similar just a different shape right?

[emoney]

Well, technically it's a different shape and it's also supposed to be laminated I believe.
These plans carve everything out of solid wood.....since I have no idea how to laminate
and I'm no "Ken McKay"...lol

[GRIMESPACE]

Originally Posted by emoney

Blem, a fellow forumite put these together, LC100. There's a thread around
here somewhere he made as he was developing them. He called it his "LC933". If you want them, I can send them to you.

Heya, Emoney - killer job on this. I just discovered the similar Tele you're doing for the contest today, and am extremely interested in doing something like the 335 you're building up, after I get some experience with some simpler models. If you wouldn't mind sending me a copy of the plans as well, I'd really appreciate it!

[emoney]

Ok, I'll send them this evening when I get home from work (they're stored on my laptop).
Funny you asked this today because I just got back on this build and last night FINALLY
got the "E-hole" binding glued on. Now, I can finally glue the top to the body and start
figuring out this neck. The Tele Challenge build is in the "hanging up to dry" stage, and
I've got about 1/2 the clear on the Orange Crush, so all the focus goes on this one.

I'm actually taking my time for this guitar, as I've always loved 335s and I want to continue
to go slow so I don't screw up as much as I usually do.

[Mayuiers]

Originally Posted by emoney

Blem, a fellow forumite put these together, LC100. There's a thread around
here somewhere he made as he was developing them. He called it his "LC933". If you want them, I can send them to you.

E$,

I am looking to build a CS-356 and am following your thread religiously. Thanks for all of the updates!!

If a set of plans are available, could you PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE shoot me a copy, as well?

Hardly anyone builds this style of guitar, so it's a rare treat to see yours taking shape.


THANKS !!!!

[ievans]

Originally Posted by Archer

Now why didn't it ever occur to me to use rubber bands to hold binding on while it dries? Answer: I'm a maroon.

Looking good money.

Some guys use old bicycle inner tubes to attach the fretboard to the neck. The advantage of using a single piece of rubber to attach the fretboard is that it keeps it centered on the neck.

And you should see pictures of old school Spanish flamenco luthiers. Lots of jute rope in use.

[LC100]

Originally Posted by Mayuiers

E$,

I am looking to build a CS-356 and am following your thread religiously. Thanks for all of the updates!!

If a set of plans are available, could you PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE shoot me a copy, as well?

Hardly anyone builds this style of guitar, so it's a rare treat to see yours taking shape.


THANKS !!!!

You should know this is not the same size as the 336/356 models. It is based (loosely) on the 339 which is slightly larger.

PDF's here. They will not stay long so grab while the grabbing is good.

[Mayuiers]

You've saved me a ton of work. Thank you very much for the plans !

And yes, I knew about the size differences. It's not much, but it is apprent with the two guitars sitting side by side.

I'm guessing the differences in size have to do with one using a laminate construction and the others using a solid one-piece top and body.

[emoney]

Thanks, LC!

Well, might as well get back on this beast, don't you think? Not a huge update, but it
is an update nonetheless.
Finally got the E-holes bound;

So, I went ahead and glued the top to the body. Slippery sucker it was;


And your standard, conglomerate of clamps pics;


Now I can finally cut the neck plane, route the pocket and start setting this neck. I've
got the fretboard radiused and as a reminder, the new neck blank is roughed out. Hey,
I may be new at this, but at least I'm slow!

[GRIMESPACE]

Originally Posted by LC100

You should know this is not the same size as the 336/356 models. It is based (loosely) on the 339 which is slightly larger.

PDF's here. They will not stay long so grab while the grabbing is good.

Just checked, and not able to get in... any chance of helping me out? I work days, so it's sometimes tough to get in immediately

[emoney]

Woohoo, it's out of the clamps. The top is now married to the body!!! Oh, and it just
fits my planing jig, so that's a good thing;

Still worried about weight and outside of the pickup routes and about 1/16" I figure will
come off the top in final sanding, there's no where else to shed pounds. I purposely
used a lighter piece for the neck so I'm hoping that helps. Not as light as the first one
I screwed up, but any little bit should help. I'm about to finish up my Tele build and the
Orange Crush LP has finally hit lacquer. So, this baby will be getting all my attention now
but I'm still going to go slow because I want this one as close to perfect as I'm capable
of getting it at least. No "experimenting" on this build.

Probably going to re-do both the 3 p'up LP and the 1st, Walnut top as I'm not happy with
3 pickups or the binding on that one nor the neck on the Walnut. So those won't be
completed for a while still. Dang....how'd I get into this mess anyway?

[TKOjams]

Conan O'Brien: "Looks Good!" - YouTube

Conan O'Brien: "Looks Good!" - YouTube