Rob's LP Build - "The Dragon"

[Claymore]

Over the past few years I have built a few acoustic guitars, but recently decided it was time to switch gears and build the LP of my dreams. After studying the Preeb, ExNihlo, Bartlett, '59 builds, I figure it is time to get started on my own. It is not intended to be a perfect replica of a particular model or year. What I want to end up with is a burst using the excellent Catto and ExNihlo PDF's for reference.

This will be done with fairly basic hand and power tools in my "workshop" (spare room converted....) - no pin router or 6' planer...although I do have a dual drum sander I picked up dirt cheap....

Thanks for looking!

Rob

[Claymore]

Here is a the parts list with part #s for all the bits and pieces - should be enough to get me started....

Body and Top:
SA Mahogany: 8/4 x 18”l x 7.5”w
Curly Maple: 4/4 x 18”l x 7.5”w

Neck:
SA Mahogany, Curly Maple Binding, EVO Gold Frets (LMI FWG74)

Headstock Veneer:
Ebony
Headstock Inlay:
Andy DePaule

Misc Parts (Stew-Mac):
1058-R Slotted Fingerboard for Gibson Guitar
0053-B Black Metal Jack Plate for Les Paul with Screws
0066 Humbucker Helpers Set/2
0126 JP LP Wiring Kit
0168 Chrome Stop Tailpiece with Metric Thread
0170 Chrome Strap Buttons - Set of 2
0615 Small Truss Rod Cover for Banjo/Mandolin 2-1/4 x 1-1/16 Gauge
0743 Nickel Slotted Roundhead 0.090 Diameter Truss Rod Cover Screw
0912 Nickel 3-left/3-right Vintage-Style Tuners with Keystone Knobs
2552 4mm Allen Nut Hot Rod - 18" overall length
1030 .059in Black Pickguard Material Sheet
1152 Cream Switch Plate for Gibson-style Toggle Switch
1194-A Amber bell knob
1509 1/4in Cream Plastic Humbucking Pickup Mounting Ring
1510 7/16in Cream Plastic Humbucking Pickup Mounting Ring
1511 Chrome Tune-O-Matic Bridge with Posts & Bushings
3359-G Gold Pickup Mounting Ring Screw
4397 Cream Binding .090 x .565 x 65
4652 Switchcraft Mono Output Jack

Allparts:
LT-1465-080 LT-1465-080 - Mother of Pearl Inlay Set
EP-4382-000 EP-4382-000 - .022 "Orange Drop" Capacitors
GS-0001-001 GS-0001-001 - Nickel Pickguard Screws

[Claymore]

These pieces came from Black Forest Woods. 8/4 Honduras Mahogany and 4/4 Curly Maple

Running the stock through the drum sander

After the initial sanding, the pieces are cut to length.

Truing the joint using the jointing jig - sandpaper clamped perpendicular to piece of very flat float glass

After truing the sides they are clamped flush in the vice and using a block plane barely shave the surface in preparation for gluing. The joint needs to be perfect with no light shining through when held up to a bright light source (like the sun....)

Same treatment for the Maple

This is the glue-up jig for the plates. One side is clamped, the other is clamped using three wedges.

[Claymore]

The top and body plates are set aside to "rest" after sizing and gluing. Time to make up some templates. Here is the Catto plan, fresh from the printers - second time around - have to be sure to tell the printer "no scaling" and "print to file size". The lower bout should be exactly 13". Print at least 5 copies.

Tpo create the Master Template, cut out the paper profile 1/8" outside the line. Trace the outside of the plan onto a piece of MDF, cut out the profile, then glue the plan onto the MDF. I tried spray adhesive but Elmer's white paper glue worked better.

Using the spindle sander to sand the edges almost to the line.

Using a sanding block to sand the edges exactly to the line. The 1 1/2" rubber attachment from the spindle sander is perfect for shaping the upper bouts and the cutaway.

Cut out and glue up three more plans and templates. Drill and countersink a screw hole in the center of the pickup area, and screw the master template to the second template, ensuring the centerlines are exactly lined up. Then use a top-bearing pattern bit and rout the second template so it a perfect copy of the master. Repeat for template #3.


Using a 1" Forstner bit, hog out as much material in the control and switch cavities as possible, keeping inside the line.


Using the spindle sander to shape to the line

[Claymore]

Template 1: This is for the cable channel - it is 1/2" wide. The channel extends into the switch cavity to the outside edge, and just butts up to the control cavity

Template 2: This template is for the control cavity, switch cavity, and pickup lugs

Template 3: This template is for the control cover, switch cover, and pickup cavities

Template 4: This template is for the neck tenon - note there is no cutaway - this is to provide a secure base for the router.

[Claymore]

The back has been thicknessed to 1 3/4", and the master template was used with the top-bearing pattern bit to shape the sides. To rout out the cavities, first mark the switch and control cavities with a pencil.

Hog out the control and switch cavities with a 1" Forstner bit to 1-1/2" deep.

Hogged out.

Use the top-bearing pattern bit to rout the cavities.

Remove the template to get the last passes. Ensure at least 1/2 of the bit shaft is in the collet. Route to 1 11/16", leaving 1/16" of material at the bottom of the cavities.

[Claymore]

Routing the Cable Channel with the pattern adapter. The cable channel is 1/2" wide and 1/2" deep.

Note the channel just butts into the control cavity, and extends into the switch cavity to the outside edge , to allow room for the switch mechanism.

Align the top to the back and drill 1/8" holes through the top and into the back by 1/4". Use the screw holes used previously by the Master Template, which are in the center of the pickup location. Insert 1/8" dowels 7/8" long - file a point on the ends.

Keep the glue at least 1/2" away from the cable channel. Get lots of clamps ready - at least 8.

The top was thicknessed to 5/8" and rough shaped with the bandsaw, ensuring the pattern matched the top centerline. The edge will be trimmed flush with the sides later. After clamping, clean up the glue squeeze-out.

[Claymore]

Thanks to ExNihlo for making these Profile maps available. They are a topographical map of a '59 burst, in 1/16" gradients. They are glued to 1/2" MDF.

Cut out with the bandsaw, then smoothed to the line with the spindle sander.

Using a bottom-bearing flush trim bit to trim the top to the sides. Then sand the sides perfectly smooth up to 220.

Before contouring the top, use the Master Template and drill 1/16" holes to mark the location of the pots and the switch.

The full pattern has been glued to the maple top. Here the first pattern is screwed in place. Using a pattern sleeve rout down in 1/8" increments until there is 3/16" left above the back. In this case, The top is 5/8", the pattern is 1//2", so the final depth of the first rout is 15/16". Successive patterns will be routed 1/16" less.

After stepping down 1/8" per pass, the first 15/16" cut is complete

All the passes are complete.

[Claymore]

To route the neck angle, mount the body with the centerline square to the hinged routing jig

The target neck angle is 4.4 degrees as shown.

Use the jig as shown to route the neck angle. Increase the depth by 1/16" per pass to keep it smooth. Continue routing until the depth of the maple top at the neck/body join matches the rest of the body - 3/16"

Perfect!

The target pickup angle is 1.2 degrees.

This is critical...Route the pickup angle, increasing the depth minimally per pass. the target depth is reached when the intersection of the neck angle and pickup angle is exactly at the end of the fretboard (and start of the pickup ring)

Looks good!

[Claymore]

Using a ROS to smooth out the gradient lines

Used an assortment of sanding tools/scrapers to get the curves smooth.

Hog out the cavity with a 1" Forstner bit

The template is held in place with 2-sided tape and finishing nails

The cavity is 1.5" wide and 1.5" deep

The pickup lugs get routed separately from the main pickup cavity, as they are deeper (1.4"). The template is held in place with double-sided tape

The pickup cavities then get routed down to a 1.1" depth.

Cavities cut.

Back Cavity Covers: Align the cavity cover template and route to the thickness of the cavity cover.

[EtriX]

Nice work. It's clear that you are used to work with tools.
I really like your angle-jig, it seems really handy.
Looking forward to see how this turns out.

[Claymore]

Using a Stew-Mac binding bit set to 6mm deep, cutting a 0.070" channel. The binding is 0.090" which will be scraped flush to the body after installation.

Routing the binding channel. (let me know if you want plans for the binding cutter - works great - about $30 worth of materials)


The binding came 12mm tall; it was ripped down to 8mm on the router table. The install started at the cutaway. The binding was warmed with a heat gun set to low heat to bend around the horn. Thin CA was wicked in once the joint was tight.

A small plane is used to trim down the bulk of the protruding binding. Note the masking tape on the inside of the plane to avoid marking the top

A cabinet scraper with a burnished edge makes quick work of trimming the binding flush.

Using the Troji guitar vise to hold the body

Using a 3/16" roundover bit on the back edge. this step is done near the end of the body build to protect the edge.

The output jack hole is centered in between the edge of the roundover and the binding. The location mark is on the Catto plan. A 1" forstner bit is used. Stop drilling once the bit just reaches the control cavity to prevent tearout. Complete the hole in the cavity with a round file or a very long pattern bit.

[Claymore]

Locate the tailpiece with the Catto plan, ensuring it follows the centerline. Check that your tailpiece matches the plan. The Gotoh unit is standard 3-1/4" on center, which matches the plan.

The 7/16" tailpiece bushing holes were drilled exactly 1" deep. Before installing the bushings, a 1/8" hole is drilled from the treble side bushing into the control cavity for the ground wire.

After feeding the 22ga tinned ground wire through the hole, leave 1/2" in the bushing hole, then install the bushings. The top of the bushing should be just below the surface. Use a small socket and extension to get the last bit.

Nice!

The ground wire, coiled up out of the way for now. Next time I will drill at a steeper angle...

[Claymore]

Cutting the scarf joint: After laying out the 17 degree angle, allowing for enough material to accommodate the headstock, cut the scarf joint.

The ultra-sharp low-angle block plane does a nice job of truing the scarf joint

After truing the joint, reduce the headstock thickness to 1/2" The finished headstock will be 9/16" after applying the 1/16" ebony headstock veneer.

Glue-up

A 1/16" deep bed is routed out in the MDF carrier before reducing the headstock veneer to 1/16" in the drum sander

Using the router table to route the truss rod (LMI double-action) channel - 1/4'" wide x 3/8" deep.

The end of the truss rod must end up below the surface of the headstock

On a line square to the centerline, cut the edge of the veneer that will butt up to the nut at a 17 degree angle.

Four x 1/16" holes have been drilled through the veneer into the headstock outside of the headstock pattern. 1/16" brad nails will be used to locate the veneer during glue-up. The caul has 1/4" holes where the brads will protrude. The veneer has been notched for the truss rod.

A block is clamped exactly at the headstock to neck junction. Apply an even, fairly light glue layer, locate the veneer with the brads, then clamp. Let set overnight.

[nuance97]

FANTASTIC!!!! Really good work so far.

Originally Posted by Claymore

I don't know if you plan on doing the angle route in the bottom of your control cavity or if you are just gonna drill for each pot w/forsner bits..., but that ground wire already installed will make it difficult to do either.

[GammyBird]

Excellent!! I love these threads!!

[Claymore]

Using the adjustable protractor to copy the neck to body angle to transfer to the neck blank. (Should be 85.6 degrees)

Transferring the neck to body angle at the 16th fret.

Cutting the neck to body angle down to the 1.5" tenon line

Another line is rough cut on the tenon side - this will be the limit of the band saw cut

Cutting the tenon on the bandsaw, up to the safety line. The masking tape is a visual guide - the tenon is cut slightly larger, then trimmed to fit later.

The remainder of the cut to the body line will be carefully done with a chisel.

The neck to body joint has been cleaned up with a chisel.

The material for the pickup cavity at the end of the tenon has been removed.

After carefully shaving the tenon down to size, (width and height)the tenon is fit into the body and the cutaway line is marked.

Starting to look like a guitar....











'

[Claymore]

For the headstock inlay, I photocopied the inlay (which was glued on black cardboard). In an image editor the picture was rendered as a b&w negative, and the contrast was increased to make a sharp image that is printed and glued (Elmer's white paper) to the headstock as a template.

Using the Dremel and a 1/16" end mill to rout out the inlay. This needs to be done in two passes, with the inlay sitting exactly flush with the surface of the veneer.

Inlay cut out

The inlay was glued in with medium CA, then filled in with epoxy mixed with black dye.

To rout the fretboard inlays, the fretboard is held in a channel cut into MDF that is the exact thickness of the fretboard crown. This will ensure that the bottom of the inlay cavity is perfectly flat to accept the flat inlay. The outside edges of the inlays will sit proud of the surface, and will be sanded flush after gluing. The block inlays are centered and marked around with a pencil. The bulk of the inlay cut was removed with a 1/8" end mill, than a 1/32" end mill was used to cut to the line.

The MOP block inlays were glued in place with medium CA, then Woodcraft filler was pressed in before smoothing with the 12" radius block. A good mask and frequent vacuuming is imperative - MOP is deadly.

[Claymore]

The fretboard taper, (minus the 0.070" maple binding) was traced on the fretboard, then taped off slightly over the line to provide a visual guide for the #4 plane on the shooting board.

After planing, the fretboard is taken down to the exact size on the sandpaper jointing jig. The sandpaper is clamped exactly perpendicular to a piece of flat 1/4" float glass.

Cut the fretboard to length, so that the fretboard just butts into the pickup ring allowing for the 0.070" binding. After attaching the binding at the end of the fretboard, the side binding is clamped against the fretboard with two large pieces of MDF, then a drop of thin CA is wicked between the frets - avoid getting any glue in the fret slots. Note that a few layers of masking tape are built up on the bottom of the fretboard, allowing the binding to attach below the bottom of the fretboard, so it can be scraped flush later. Once dry, the fretboard is turned over and a bead of thin CA is wicked all along the bottom seam.

After scraping the bottom and sanding the top flush, the side binding is sanded down to size in the jointing jig. The target nut end dimension is 1-11/16" (1.688"), the butt end is 2 1/4". The binding width is 0.070", to match the binding width on the body.

The headstock template is attached to the headstock with double-sided tape. 3 operations will follow - cutting the shape using a router with a pattern bit, drilling the 1/16" pilot holes for the tuners, and shaping the "moustache" at the peak of the headstock with a needle file.


To help position the fretboard for gluing, the fretboard is lightly clamped into position against a dummy nut exactly on the layout lines,
and 6 x 1/2" pieces of wood binding are CA'd in place using medium CA. This will prevent the fretboard from sliding around during glue-up.
After gluing the truss rod in place, masking tape is placed over the truss rod and the glue is spread.

After removing the masking tape the fretboard is clamped into place, ensuring it is snug up against the dummy nut. The cauls are shaped to the 12" fretboard radius and lined with 1/8" cork.

[Claymore]

Originally Posted by nuance97

FANTASTIC!!!! Really good work so far.

I don't know if you plan on doing the angle route in the bottom of your control cavity or if you are just gonna drill for each pot w/forsner bits..., but that ground wire already installed will make it difficult to do either.
[/IMG]

Thanks!!!
And agreed - will have to think of something clever when I get to that stage....
I will probably pop the stud and re-drill the ground wire hole.... :-(

[Claymore]

Originally Posted by EtriX

Nice work. It's clear that you are used to work with tools.
I really like your angle-jig, it seems really handy.
Looking forward to see how this turns out.

Thanks for looking! I picked up the angle jig from another build thread - can't imagine cutting the neck and pickup planes without it... I am hopeful it will turn out well. The thread is now caught up as of today....working on my favorite part - the neck profile.

[EtriX]

Originally Posted by Claymore

Wow, that inlay is amazing!
Where did you get that?

['59_Standard]

Nice pics, explanation and work, Rob!

[dazzypig]

I can't believe that's all you've done!

Great thread man!!

[Claymore]

Originally Posted by EtriX

Wow, that inlay is amazing!
Where did you get that?

The inlay is from Andy DePaule at luthiersupply.com.
He has some truly astounding inlays...

Note the photo was taken moments after removing the caul and doing a very light sanding. The black epoxy fill will blend perfectly into the ebony.

[Claymore]

Originally Posted by '59_Standard

Nice pics, explanation and work, Rob!

Thanks! Your build thread was very useful in helping me plan my attack...

[DanielDeGregoriis]

Beautiful build, very informative thread! Really cool to see some other ways to tackle some of the build-parts (using a shooting board etc.).

I've got a few questions:



- Did you do this to have a flat base for the inlay to sit on? I had some problems when installing the mop inlays on my build, the curved base was too 'curved' for the inlay.

I will try this on my next build!

- When using a flamed maple binding, is the top of this binding lacquered as well? Or is it sealed by something else?

Thanks in advance,

Daniel

[bertzie]

Where's the rest of the build?! You can't just post part of one and then leave us hanging!!! That's cruel and unusual punishment!

[Claymore]

Originally Posted by dazzypig

I can't believe that's all you've done!

Great thread man!!

Hahaa!! I have been at it for a few weeks now - wanted to make some progress before posting....caught up now...luckily no major blowouts - so far....lots to do yet!

[Claymore]

Originally Posted by bertzie

Where's the rest of the build?! You can't just post part of one and then leave us hanging!!! That's cruel and unusual punishment!

The rest of the build...is...uh....planned!