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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
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1960 nut
I have a G0 from '05 or so that has serious nut issues. Tuning is a real problem as there is quite a bit of sticking. Should I be using something like nut sauce or going in with some sandpaper and widening things out a bit? I've already used pencil lead to no avail.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Bartlett Retrospec Member
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Re: 1960 nut
It's common. Nut sauce or powdered graphite (even pencil shavings) does the trick.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Bartlett Retrospec Member
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Re: 1960 nut
Or replacing the nut with a bone version. For my Epiphone I built myself a bone nut. Up close it looks kind of dodgy but hey: it does its job very well!
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Raleigh, NC
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Re: 1960 nut
Quote:
10-15 passes with each, kinda rocking the paper from side to side in the slot. Very gently. You can subtly flare out the headstock end of the slot as well. ![]() Lube with chapstick, graphite, or vasoline. Or my new fav... graphite powder *in* vasoline. MM
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MM 2009 Gibson LP Standard Trad Pro Heritage Cherry Sunburst, 2007 Edwards LP-130LTS/RE-LMD, 2010 Gibson LP 50's Tribute Studio Goldtop w/Bigsby, 2006 Gibson LP Special DC Faded Cherry, 1989 Carvin DC135T, 1988 Carvin SH225, 1998 MIJ Squier Vista Venus, 2005 MIA Squier Affinity Telecaster, 2006 Ibanez Artcore AS83VLS, ShredStrat w/FR, SwampStrat w/ StraBro90's, Carvin V3 & V30 412, Egnater Rebel 30, Dave Hunter Two-Stroke, 2xCarvin 212CE, 2xCarvin 212 Classic |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Die Hard LP Man
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Re: 1960 nut
I invested in the STEWMAC nut files and with some other tools have made a few Micarta nuts (one's currently on the Elitist Plus). I've also found the files very handy for tweeking the nuts on my Trad and R0 (although nylon 6/6 doesn't cut as cleanly as corian). When I use sandpaper (400, 600 & 1200) I reinforced it with the nut files to keep the shape of the slots correct.
The files were also good for cleaning up the saddle notches and usefull when I replaced my pre-notched saddles on both of my Elitists with proper blank ones (done to better match the fretboard radius).
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