Squire classic vibe serial #'s comparison thread

[Iceman0124]

Just noticed on my original CVS 60's with the 3 piece body and bad (poorly ebonized) RW board had a SN starting with CGR, same as my 50's which I love and have no issue with.

My new 60's with 2 piece body, and un doctored "normal" RW board starts with CGS, only other diff I've found so far is the CGS model doesnt have black paint in the trem cavity, my CGR LPB has LPB paint in the cavity.

Other CV owners, check your first 3 letters and lets see if we can find similar differences in construction/components etc.

[Jason]

I think there's a CV thread on the Fender/Squier forums where someone started doing this awhile back... I think there's only like 5 or less of us who have CVs on MLP...

[Iceman0124]

Whats your start with? With you thinking you might have a veneer top is what made me think to start this thread actually.

[Jason]

Cgr

[Jason]

I've seen other people say they don't have veneers.. it's just weird to me, I can find ONE off-center seam on the back and I cannot for the life of me find any on the front... I'm leaning toward no veneers though... but some awesome grain matching in some cases maybe?

[Iceman0124]

I've seen some that are hard to tell, on my new one its hard to find the seam in certain places, one of these days get some well lit close ups of the front and back, they dont have to be full body, just full span, and i'll bet I can find the seams for ya.

[Jason]

Yeah I will as soon as the sun cooperates.

[Iceman0124]

Flash will work well too if you aim it right



That was with a flash as I couldnt rotate my apartment around to have the sun cooperate with me getting the shot I needed.

[Jason]

I think I found them... damn they're hard to spot. I'll take pics right now.

[Jason]

Can't get any good pictures, they're coming out blurry even with the flash.

Anyway, one seam is about 3/4 inch to the bass side of the edge of the trem cavity. And the other seam is almost exactly where the burst transitions from amber to red on the other end of the guitar. The only part where the paint is light enough to even barely see it is right between the jackplate and the pickguard (about 3/4 of an inch is viewable). You still can't hardly see it because it just so happens to be in the color transition.

The first seam that you can really see on the back is still almost completely invisible on the front. The grain/shade of wood match so well that all you can see is a very very thin line of a lighter color that looks like part of the grain itself. I had to trace my finger around from the back to find the location and finally be able to see it. Impressive.

So, yes... it is a 3 piece.

[Iceman0124]

I just like knowing they are all indeed soild alder bodies, be 2 or 3 pieces, both are quality, it where you get the "solid " 30 piece jenga style bodies with a pretty picture on top that....well....not so good....

As for blurriness...is your camera set to auto?, if not try that, if it is, and good pics are important to you,do some searching on ISO settings and manuaally adjust it till they come out right. Some of the fuji samsung and sony cameras have odd auto settings, I always buy cannon or olympus as they never fail me in any price range, had to sell all my good cameras a ways back, all the pics I've p[ut up the last year or so are all on a littlwe cannon SD790IS P&S I got open box at BB for around $150.....(after returning a fuji that had great specs, but took piss poor pics no matter what I did)..and for most of the shots I've left everything on auto

[Jason]

Originally Posted by Iceman0124

I just like knowing they are all indeed soild alder bodies, be 2 or 3 pieces, both are quality, it where you get the "solid " 30 piece jenga style bodies with a pretty picture on top that....well....not so good....

Still probably better than plywood though. But yeah... I'd say these guitars are no joke. If one were to hang on to a CV for awhile, it might be worth it to start slowly upgrading the hardware...

[Iceman0124]

Originally Posted by Jason

Still probably better than plywood though. But yeah... I'd say these guitars are no joke. If one were to hang on to a CV for awhile, it might be worth it to start slowly upgrading the hardware...

Aside from the pots, switch and skimpy trem block (same that used on the MIM's for years up untill last year, all the hardware looks super solid, tuners are great, bent saddles...they dont say fender but hell....I'm doing th pots, switch and changing guards now, guards just a personal choice, but really the trem block is the only real hardware piece that might, be worth changing out, and can be had for 20 bucks or so on GFS.

[dennistruckdriver]

[quote=Iceman0124;870827]

Originally Posted by Iceman0124

Aside from the pots, switch and skimpy trem block (same that used on the MIM's for years up untill last year, all the hardware looks super solid, tuners are great, bent saddles...they....

I've had several MIM Standard Stratocasters, all previous to last year's model, and NONE of them had a piece of crap for a trem block like the one in the photo in a previous post!

[Iceman0124]

The block on CVS looks the same as the one on my 98 mim, if I remeber right the big changes for the 08-09 MIM's aside from price hike was the logo, neck tint, and beefier trem block...

[Yogi]

[quote=dennistruckdriver;870899]

Originally Posted by Iceman0124

I've had several MIM Standard Stratocasters, all previous to last year's model, and NONE of them had a piece of crap for a trem block like the one in the photo in a previous post!

Yeah I've seen old MIM trem blocks and they all had the thin block up until recently. My friend had a 2001 MIM and it had the thin block. They just recently upgraded to the full size (non-steel block)

[Yogi]

I think the CGS serials may be the earlier production ones. Both of the ones I had back when they were introduced were CGS serials