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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
Hi guys, again I own a Epiphone sg 400 custom, I hear people say their nuts are crappy, and yeah I'm having some tuning problems.
I emailed graph tech to know the correct nut for me and they said that it would be also good to change the bridge. Heres the kit they suggested me http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=27 The problem is, this thing is pricey.. will it make that difference in my guitar? Thanks! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
It will the better hold in tune and increase some sustain. I would for sure, and then I'd get it setup. For a cheaper alternative you can get a tusq nut and Gotoh bridge. I think fellow member TWANG sells them.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Mac Guitars
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
Yeah, what he said!
Go with a TUSQ nut and a Gotoh bridge, the one that's a direct fit in the Epi. You should be rockin' for less than half of Graphtech's suggestion. ![]() Hope it helps.
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#4 (permalink) |
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V.I.P. Member
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
I'll say NO!!! NOT necessary.
Having your nut slots filed to the appropriate depth IS needed, though. I removed the Tonepros bridge from my Epi and went back to stock - and along with a nice setup and the ORIGINAL nut slots being recut, I couldn't be happier with it. Plays as good as my Gibsons. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
He could at least change to a tusq nut. They are pretty cheap aren't they?
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"One man's trash is another man's treasure" and thus we now have eBay Epiphone Les Paul Plus Top (MIK 2000) with Wolfetone Marshallheads Fulltone OCD Radial Tonebone Hot British Boss DD-6 Ampeg J-12T <-- smoking hot! |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Banned
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Location: Canada as opposed to Kanata
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
Quote:
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#7 (permalink) |
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Banned
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
Gotoh Tune-o-matic Bridge with Studs/Bushings at Stewart-MacDonald get this if you want a little better bridge, the gold platting is better than the Epis. Won't sound too much different but they are a little nicer.
I put grah tech saddles on my Epi Shearton II years ago didn't make a bit of difference. In fact I had to refile some or them cause they buzzed . |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Banned
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
Twang can get them ^ I think a person has to order a mim. from stewmac, that min being more than 27.$ I think .... could be wrong?
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
Mostek gitarowy GOTOH / zamiennik do gitar typu LP (755669949) - Aukcje internetowe Allegro
So this one will fit directly? What would be the benefits of installing one? |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Banned
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
I don't see the one you are posting if its the same as the one I did. Well it does have a little more travel in the saddle slots. So if you where having any intonation problems, it would take care of that. It does not have a retainer wire, which some have problems with. And in general is made better, feels better. Etc. The platting is better. Some think they increase sustain , but IDK. Just a little nicer piece than the reg. Epi. The tonepro are the same bridge only with locking set screws added. The graph tech is again the same only with saddles made of their graphite thing.
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#14 (permalink) |
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V.I.P. Member
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
I'm with Overdriver 100% though - if you are going to upgrade the bridge, use the Gotoh - don't waste the extra money for the Tonepros (which IS a Gotoh bridge, with set screws). The set screws make no difference in my experience.
The stock bridge works well enough for me - I really enjoy the guitar "as is" - and had it converted back to bone stock after having pimped it out quite a bit. I did put some Epi USA pickups in it that I had lying around, but not because it "needed" anything IMO. I'll take a good luthier setup over a hardware upgrade any day. |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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V.I.P. Member
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
Quote:
I don't gig with this guitar, it is just one I play at home - and serves me very well as-is. My SG is with Roman Rist getting a bone nut right now (and some WB prototype doublebuckers!). I'd rather have a well cut corian or even plastic nut than a half ass cut upgraded nut if given the choice. |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Banned
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
Quote:
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#17 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Re: Changing bridge and nut. Necessary?
To answer the original question, I do recommend changing the nut, if it is plastic. My luthier changed mine to bone for $27 parts and labor. I didn't have a major tuning prob before, but have none at all now. Plastic, no matter what you do to it, will always be a bit sticky under the pressure of the strings. Remember that tusq IS a form of plastic. Also, graphite nuts make the sound less bright on open strings. They work great on guitars with Strat-type trems, and are worth the tone trade-off on them. On guitars with no trem, graphite nuts aren't worth the open string dulling, IMO.
The effect of bridges on tuning is a function of how smooth the string groves are. Use of some 1200 grit sandpaper in those groves on the stock bridge will help about as much with staying in tune as can be done. As far as the bridge's effect on sustain is concerned, we are getting into a "dark science" involving a number of factors outside the bridge. All other factors being equal (such as wood density, attachment, and string angle behind the bridge), IMO the more dense and heavy the bridge, the greater the sustain. As with all "rules", there are exceptions. |
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