Snipe program

[SKATTERBRANE]

Anyone interested in a cheap sniping service for bidding on Ebay. Just PM me with your email address, and I will "invite" you to the service. I have been using it for years, and I love it.

[mrpesca]

Originally Posted by Norbe

Anyone interested in a cheap sniping service for bidding on Ebay. Just PM me with your email address, and I will "invite" you to the service. I have been using it for years, and I love it.

Creating your own competition? I don't know if that's a good idea or not. You might get sniped by your MLP pals now.

[SKATTERBRANE]

Well that is true. It could happen I suppose.

[Stevehose]

How does one PM? I can't fnd how, am I blocked or something?

[gravmy0]

Think you need about 100 posts.

you could head to the backstage and find one of those threads that never end like the word association thread or bobbo's raise your post count thread

[SKATTERBRANE]

Originally Posted by Stevehose

How does one PM? I can't fnd how, am I blocked or something?

If you do not mind exposing your email here, just post it on this thread. I think it is 50 posts, then you can PM.

[Stevehose]

Originally Posted by Norbe

If you do not mind exposing your email here, just post it on this thread. I think it is 50 posts, then you can PM.

Got it. Thanks much.

[jkbird59]

hi not enough posts email t59bird@yahoo.com thanks jeff

[Big John]

Sniper programs are ok if you're going to be away from the computer at the auciton's closing. But if you're watching it until the end, there's a better way. By openning multiple windows (say a dozen) with increasing bids, and doing a rapid fire within the last 6-8 seconds, the sniper programs don't have a chance. Guaranteed to win for the lowest price, because the values that get refreshed back to the sniper program arrive too late.

[gravmy0]

Originally Posted by Big John

Sniper programs are ok if you're going to be away from the computer at the auciton's closing. But if you're watching it until the end, there's a better way. By openning multiple windows (say a dozen) with increasing bids, and doing a rapid fire within the last 6-8 seconds, the sniper programs don't have a chance. Guaranteed to win for the lowest price, because the values that get refreshed back to the sniper program arrive too late.

how do you guys perfectly time it when you're doing it manually,

I'm worried that my clock would be a couple minutes late or early?

[SKATTERBRANE]

invites have been sent to jkbird59 (do you own a 1959 Thunderbird?) and Stevehose.

[oilpit]

oilpit1235@gmail.com

[SKATTERBRANE]

Originally Posted by Big John

Sniper programs are ok if you're going to be away from the computer at the auciton's closing. But if you're watching it until the end, there's a better way. By openning multiple windows (say a dozen) with increasing bids, and doing a rapid fire within the last 6-8 seconds, the sniper programs don't have a chance. Guaranteed to win for the lowest price, because the values that get refreshed back to the sniper program arrive too late.

The sniper program does not react to your bidding at all. What you are doing is a waste of energy. With a sniper program you bid once, and only once. The following proxy bids (if any) are done by Ebays system. With a snipe program OR sniping manually, you just put in your one and only highest bid at the last 1-5 seconds. If he bid is too low (lower than the next highest increment already posted) it is not placed, or it is blocked, just like it would be if you manually bid too low. If if is higher than the posted bid, but lower than the proxy bid, then the item is bid up to the next increment above your bid. If it is higher than the proxy bid, then you only pay one increment higher than the second highest bid. The bid coming from the snipe program acts exacty like a manual bid, but at the last possible moment.

It does not make sense for you to make multiple, ever increasing bids. You make ONE bid, (the absolutle highest you are willing to pay) and make it as late as possible. It is possible that you could place a million dollar bid and win the item for $1.25.

[gravmy0]

Originally Posted by Norbe

The sniper program does not react to your bidding at all. What you are doing is a waste of energy. With a sniper program you bid once, and only once. The following proxy bids (if any) are done by Ebays system. With a snipe program OR sniping manually, you just put in your one and only highest bid at the last 1-5 seconds. If he bid is too low (lower than the next highest increment already posted) it is not placed, or it is blocked, just like it would be if you manually bid too low. If if is higher than the posted bid, but lower than the proxy bid, then the item is bid up to the next increment above your bid. If it is higher than the proxy bid, then you only pay one increment higher than the second highest bid. The bid coming from the snipe program acts exacty like a manual bid, but at the last possible moment.

It does not make sense for you to make multiple, ever increasing bids. You make ONE bid, (the absolutle highest you are willing to pay) and make it as late as possible. It is possible that you could place a million dollar bid and win the item for $1.25.

Quick question: What do you normally leave your lead time at?

its recommended to be atleast 5 seconds but do you usually do more, less or about the same

[SKATTERBRANE]

I do a 5 second. I have been outsniped by those who use a 1 second lead time. But had they bid first, my bid would have been blocked anyway, because their bid was MORE than mine. If you lose a snipe after you bid THE MOST you would pay, you really do not lose, because they bid MORE than you would pay. Who wants to pay more than they want to?

[SKATTERBRANE]

The reason for a snipe it to put your bid in so late as to not cause a bidding war, and get the item for as little as possible. The other reason is to bid for you when you are not at a computer. It is not magic. There just is no reason to start a bidding war. The MORE you want to win something, the LESS you should place an early bid. Placing an early bid spurs competition. Only amateurs bid early, bid often. But if you ever see one of my auction PLEASE bid early and bid often, for this only helps the seller.

[jkbird59]

yeah i own a 59 tbird convt

[Big John]

I should've been more specific, Norbe. I agree with what you've said for single bid sniper programs, since they rely on eBay's proxy bidding system to win. The proxy system is only good until maximums are reached. But, it's clear that you have never bid against a smart-sniper program, let alone the posibility of a number of bidders using smart snipers on the same item at the same time. Smart snipers usually place about 4 bids in the last 10 seconds. They react to bid amounts, and the rate at which they react depends on the refresh rate. With multiple smart snipers firing away, the auction does turn into a last second feeding frenzy...unless you give these things a hickup. By using rapid-fire bidding (multiple windows), which "fools" the bid amount being refreshed back to the smart snipers, that is the only way to get the item cheaper. That's how I won my SLO. I was even contacted by one bidder asking me what sniper program I used because I won that auction for less than what he programmed into his smart sniper. Granted, smart snipers aren't in wide spread use, but you can easily spot their bidding trail when an auction is over.

So, we're both right.

[SKATTERBRANE]

Big John, thanks for the explanation! I have not experienced this as either a bidder or a seller. I do not understand why a smart sniper has an adivantage, EXCEPT against another smart sniper! What could be better than placing your highest possible bid, at the latest possible moment....even against a smart sniper?

[Big John]

Originally Posted by Norbe

...I do not understand why a smart sniper has an adivantage...

Ok, say you have your sniper program set-up to bid, for example, on a guitar amp. Let's say it worth $900-local/$850-internet. So you set your sniper to bid a max of $842.83, and it will hit the auction in the last 8 seconds. If the current bid is low before your sniper program hits, your bid has to only be $0.01 above the proxy max bid. See, once the bidding reaching certain levels, eBay automatically raises the bid increments. But if you bid an amount that's higher than the incremental amount, eBay has to take that higher bid. So if the amp has been sitting at $520 that has an automatic incremental bidding of $2.50 and has a hidden proxy max bid of $842.82, your single max bid $842.83 will beat it.

With a single shot sniper, you have to live with your max bid, which will work a lot of the time. With a smart sniper, also using oddball bid amounts, you can in essence win an auction for pennies or a few dollars more BECAUSE not only does it eliminate the long standing bid, it does the same thing against other single-shot snipers, due to it's self screen-refreshing. And it's the refreshing rate where the only advantage is if you want to beat smart snipers, by using rapid fire. The refresh, and subsequent higher bidding, can't keep up with a person loading in a dozen bid pages in 6 seconds. By the the time the smart sniper catches up, the auction's over.

The underlying strategy to this (that I didn't mention before) is your willingness to add another 1-3% to your max if you truly want something.

[SKATTERBRANE]

I understand, and yes even a single snipe bid will go in at one increment ABOVE the posted bid. If the bid is $1000, but it only shows as $1.15, (because the only other bid is $1.14) my snipe bid only has to be $1000.01, but if another bid comes in at $999 FIRST, then my snipe bid has to be $1025. If I were willing to bid 1-3% more, I would just do so. I usually bid about 10% more than I want to pay, if I REALLY want it. But that does not happen too often. My strategy is NOT to win a bidding competition, it is to get something for LESS than it should go for. That is why I do not play the bidding war game. For me Ebay is NOT a video bidding game, it is a way to get stuff that would be so much work to do going to stores. I would rather take a chance and buy a R9 for $3500 on Ebay, than to pay a dealer here $4500 for a "sure thing" If I do not like it, I will just resell it, no big deal. I have done hundreds of Les Pauls that way.

So many people think of a Les Paul purchase as a one shot thing, and they feel they have to get the best possible Les Paul the first time out. How in the hell do you know if you haven't owned and lived with several first? Most people are so precautious!!