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#31 (permalink) |
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Re: Dry Fretboard
Weldaar, I have used linseed oil on my black powder muskets before and it leaves a slightly sticky film on them. That's great for guns and whatnot, but does it do this to your board or am I maybe using a different kind of linseed oil? I don't remember if it's boiled or distilled, or what I was using....
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Eddie 1991 LP Classic (WB H&G Habaneros) 2003 Faded DC Special 2003 B7 Custom Black Beauty (WB Custom Tuned set) 2004 R7 (WB/Wolfetone Custom St. Jude's Charity 6707 set) 1999 FujiGen Epi LP Custom Black Beauty |
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#32 (permalink) |
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Re: Dry Fretboard
I use Boiled Linseed Oil. You might have used Raw Linseed Oil. You have to rub it in real good, then buff it it out by hand. Works like a charm.
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#33 (permalink) |
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Re: Dry Fretboard
So has anyone compared the fretDoctor Bore oil to Linseed oil? I am going to email him tonight.
If other oils have clogged the wood....I was told Murphy's soap can clean that up! |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Re: Dry Fretboard
I use boiled Linseed oil just the way that Weldaar states. Rub it in 3-4 frets at a time, so it;s wet, but not soaked. Let it sit for 30 seconds, and rub out any remaining excess. Just did one last night, and it darkens up the wood nicely.
This oil is made to condition and protect wood. To do a whole fretboard takes about a tablespoon. If you play every day, you;ll notice that the smell of it goes away in about a week.
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#35 (permalink) |
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Re: Dry Fretboard
I used boiled linseed oil on my wooden levels when I laid brick. It did leave a sticky film if you didn't wipe it off thouroughly. The journeymen that taught me the trade said to leave it on and steel wool it off. I still have many of those levels and they look almost good as new............Just my .02 cents. I personally use lemon oil...........
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