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#242 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Mountains of the Moon
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
Yours appears to be straight, did you get it that way or did you have to mess with it?
Is everything equally off center towards the treble side (neck,pups,bridge and tail)? |
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#243 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
Definitely didn't come that way - the neck fit was very loose with a lot of play when I got it. There's a maple shim about 1 1/2" long at the top edge of the neck pocket on the cutaway side, and another similar shim at the bottom of the neck pocket on the opposite side - this effectively changed the angle of the neck join (right to left looking at the top of the guitar, not up and down for action or bridge height, although that had to be done too). I also used a centerline measurement of the body to mark the location of the tailpiece, and then used one of those laser level things to sight down the center of the fretboard (from the nut) and fine-tuned the shims until the laser hit the center of the tailpiece location.
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#244 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
Wow Bill, it looks like you are already well on your way to whipping the kit into shape! Thank you for expediting everything. Just a FYI my FB measures the exact same as abfackeln shows in post #241.
Thanks again!
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#248 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
2 inches at the 16th fret (without binding)will leave you 0.157 too narrow. That will have to be made up with binding. Vintage correct would be 2.158 inch at the body joint including binding.
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#251 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fairfield, CA
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
I'm looking at LMI for veneer but I don't what I should get. They have a ebonized and maple veneer. Which one would give me the best results? I'm not doing a historic build so i'm not worried about that part of it.
Edit: here is a link to the veneers: http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdpro...dplate+Veneers |
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#253 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Germany
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
Does anyone know which aftermaerket cavity cover fits the electronics cavity of the Bulldog kits?
Allparts does NOT fit. |
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#254 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Sucka Free, California
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
Gibson now uses fiber board headstock overlays. At LMI here:
Fiber Veneer Sheets - Information and Pricing at LMI Ebonized veneer is just maple that's been blackened, probably using some iron shavings and a mild acid. If you've ever used citric acid to remove rust on metal, you know how much that black stuff stains. LMI also has thicker headplates in a whole bunch of different woods: Headplates - Information and Pricing at LMI When I order fretboards from them, I ask them to match the headplate's color to the fretboard if they're the same kind of wood. |
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#257 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
Can I sand holly down if the piece I have is thicker than the logo piece?
I haven't measured it, but it wouldn't be a lot. Or, is there another way to approach this, like putting something behind the logo itself? What I'm using isn't your standard, "ivory-type" inlay...(mainly because I already have this, but if you tell me to re-think it, I suppose I'll try and find the right stuff)
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#258 (permalink) | |
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Deeply embedded in The Demokratik Republik of Kalifornia
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
Quote:
You all saw (I assume) how this one is going: BYO Guitar Kit Still trying to swindle my wife into letting me buy one of yours. |
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#259 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Fairfield, CA
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
I'm in the process of installing the holly veneer. It's been glued and even routed for my inlay but I have a question on how to finish it. Is the holly dyed black or is it painted black?
teaser:
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#260 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
I'm looking to see how to shape the top of the neck. any suggestions? I want it to look like a Les Paul. it's missing the "M" shape on it...thanks
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#261 (permalink) |
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Bartlett Retrospec Member
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
I believe current historics are dyed black. The advantage is that you don't have to use knife to scrap the logo since the logo does not take in the dye.
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#262 (permalink) |
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
I would'nt recomend dye at all. I tried dying the headstock veneer with Fiebings Oil dye from Stew Mac. The dye darkened the MOP logo and the only way to get it off was by sanding the logo, messing up the veneer at the same time.
After retrying a few times with the same result even when dying the details with a thin brush I gave up. I shot the headstock with black nitro and then scraped the logo with a razor blade which was surprisingly easy. The nitro did'nt stick that hard to the MOP and came off with real straight edges around the logo. The only disadvantage was that the clear nitro dissolved the black messing up the edges a bit. Rescraping and then shooting several very, very thin coats of clear took care of that problem fine. Good luck!
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#263 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
I have a "faux" mop inlay, and I thought about taping it before I shot the black.
Any thougts on this? Is that 'not' the way to go? Swoodrum, I took a 3 sided file, marked the center of the headstock, and just sliced a line down the middle. Then I took my dremel, with a small drum sander attachment, and shaped the rest by sanding it down. Mine's not perfect, but it'll do for me. |
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#264 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
I have had very good luck with coating the inlay with Vaseline before I spray. Use a very tiny bush, and be very careful not go out side the inlay area (Ah, now I know why my kindergarten teacher gave me so much grief for coloring outside the lines!). Then just shoot black right over it, and let it cure for a day or two. Now the fun part.....use a piece of masking tape that's big enough to cover the entire area, and rub it lightly to ensure good adhesion. Then, pull the tape off "smartly", and your inlay will be exposed. You may still have a tiny bit of scraping to do.
Clean up the mess with Naptha very well (and several times) before you put clear on top. Quote:
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#266 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
Here's a mock-up pic of mine in it's current stage. I'm searching for how to
measure to drill for the bridge/stoptail... ![]() Almost ready for clear
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#269 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
Quote:
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GEAR 06' Fender Strat -USA 11' Custom Telecaster 07' Taylor 10' Les Paul KIT(ykh) - in the works... Orange Amp - RockerVerb 50watt 2x12 combo |
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#270 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Re: Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes
Hi, does anyone know what glue to use when trying to attach binding to wood and then binding to binding? any tips would be very welcome. Ive tried super glue but all I end up with is my finger glued to to the headstock .. It driving me insane..
Rich
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