Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes

[MBrennan]

Originally Posted by jordans0nly

I have to fill in a few gaps with glue. What's the best way to go about this? I've applied the shellac, sanded it before hand.

I've mixed my acetone/binding for glue. Thanks guys.

Where are the gaps you need to fill? Are they between the body and binding. Also, are you doing a solid color finish or a burst type? How you fill the gaps depends on the final finish choice.

There are a lot more experienced people than me that can add suggestions, but I'll add what I can.

[jordans0nly]

Originally Posted by MBrennan

Where are the gaps you need to fill? Are they between the body and binding. Also, are you doing a solid color finish or a burst type? How you fill the gaps depends on the final finish choice.

There are a lot more experienced people than me that can add suggestions, but I'll add what I can.

Yea, just a few spots between the body and binding. I'll be doing a tobacco burst with amber and black.

[MBrennan]

Originally Posted by jordans0nly

Yea, just a few spots between the body and binding. I'll be doing a tobacco burst with amber and black.

You might be able to make a wood "putty" like Bossman did with yellow glue and saw dust to fill in the voids, then just sand it back.

Bossman's kit build

That way it may still blend in when you put finish over it.

Or, if the burst will be almost solid next to the binding, you could fill with Gap Filling CA glue and sand it back smooth, spray the black over the fill, and scrape the binding.

Just off the top of my head.

[jordans0nly]

Originally Posted by MBrennan

You might be able to make a wood "putty" like Bossman did with yellow glue and saw dust to fill in the voids, then just sand it back.

Bossman's kit build

That way it may still blend in when you put finish over it.

Or, if the burst will be almost solid next to the binding, you could fill with Gap Filling CA glue and sand it back smooth, spray the black over the fill, and scrape the binding.

Just off the top of my head.

That does look pretty cool huh?

Might try it.

[bossman302]

Originally Posted by jordans0nly

Boss, hope you don't mind if I steal that glue idea from you, lol.

Should I try it use it on the few gaps in binding that I have to fill up? I'll be doing a tobacco burst, so, if I glue it up, sand it back, that the paints, will cover them up anyway?

I don't know anything about tobacco burst finishes so if you plan on doing the sides a solid black then you can use anything to fill in the gaps. You can use grain filler, regular putty, or the saw dust and glue.

If you plan on staining the sides or staying a natural color then I would suggest the saw dust and glue. This will blend in the best. In my case this worked out really well. It stands out in the picture but in person you don't even know its there.

[jordans0nly]

I'll be staining the sides a little. Not too dark, but hopefully will look good.

[RubberDucky]

I have been reading through this thread because I am interested in buying a kit. I was wondering if there is one brand that you pros feel stands out above the rest. I want a quality kit at a decent price, just like everyone else! Is there a thread about this? I can't find one. Any advice?

[Cpt_Gonzo]

Bulldog bodies is a nice option. Will have some issues but in general, they are the most consistent kits out there in that price region, have the best woods and require the least amount of work.

Of course, there are some people who got bad kits but Jay is very helpful and friendly and replaces damaged items without trouble.

[RubberDucky]

Awesome. Thanks for the advice!

[Cpt_Gonzo]

Originally Posted by RubberDucky

Awesome. Thanks for the advice!

If you order one, first thing to do is check your neck for straightness and test the function of the trussrod.

[RubberDucky]

Originally Posted by Cpt_Gonzo

If you order one, first thing to do is check your neck for straightness and test the function of the trussrod.

Is it common to have a bent neck? Why is that?

[Cpt_Gonzo]

Not common, but it happened to some guys. Jay will replace anything broken, though, as I said.

[bradland]

Ok guys here's the latest in the ongoing saga of my George M kit...

A quick summary-
Removed the FB because the kit neck was crap, bought a very nice neck from BFCG, ordered new binding (for the neck) from ALLPARTS, punched dot markers out of Fender tortoise picks, and before gluing the new binding I started looking very closely at fret spacing. Realized several things are not right...

This is where I am currently-
First I noticed the 1st fret is too far from the nut, based on Bartletts vintage fret spacing chart, the exact amount is irrelevant please continue reading. I decided if the 1st fret is far off how can I even measure all the rest? So I decided to use the same chart to make my own fret spacing ruler, which realized two things...

1. The fretboard has 3/32" too much material at the nut.

2. Frets 1,2,3, and 4 are all off various amounts (approx half the width of the fret) too close to the nut. Number 2 is the worst at a little over half the width of the fret itself.

So the 3/32 at the end of the FB is a simple fix. This pulls the other 18 frets right where they should be. But what about frets 1 through 4? I really don't think I'm over analyzing this, am I? I guess this is why this project is taking so long, I'm too meticulous, patient, and BUSY!

Thanks in advance for any help!

[ievans]

Before you do anything, make sure you're not dealing with the issue of there being no standard 24.75 Gibson scale. Gibson's scale hasn't been exactly the same over time. It could be 24.625 using the rule of 12, or it could be 24.75 using the rule of 18.

David Collins has a good post laying out the problems in this thread here:
Fret slotting templates

The point being that your fretboard could be fine, but it isn't using the same calculation as the Bartlett plans.

[bradland]

It's very cool you took the time to create that template. I'm sure it's an invaluable tool for the avid builder. I DL'd it and I'll have it printed full scale on Monday. Thanks again!

If I remember correctly I think George was shooting for '59 spec so I have a feeling I may end up looking for a new FB...

[bradland]

Originally Posted by ievans

Before you do anything, make sure you're not dealing with the issue of there being no standard 24.75 Gibson scale. Gibson's scale hasn't been exactly the same over time. It could be 24.625 using the rule of 12, or it could be 24.75 using the rule of 18.

David Collins has a good post laying out the problems in this thread here:
Fret slotting templates

The point being that your fretboard could be fine, but it isn't using the same calculation as the Bartlett plans.

Yes sir you are correct! I finally had the file printed full scale and the FB is based on the Martin Short Scale 24.84".

So I guess I'm OK, I think...

[ievans]

Originally Posted by bradland

Yes sir you are correct! I finally had the file printed full scale and the FB is based on the Martin Short Scale 24.84".

So I guess I'm OK, I think...

So I guess the next question is, how's the bridge location? In other words, is the 12th fret 12.44" from the nut and bridge?

[bradland]

Originally Posted by ievans

So I guess the next question is, how's the bridge location? In other words, is the 12th fret 12.44" from the nut and bridge?

Have not drilled for the bridge yet. I wanted to resolve this before going further. glad I waited!

You are obviously very knowledgeable in the many different scales and methods by which they are calculated. What can you tell me about the Martin Short 24.84"? Should I be concerned at all or is this a non issue for a LP kit?

[bradland]

Originally Posted by ievans

So I guess the next question is, how's the bridge location? In other words, is the 12th fret 12.44" from the nut and bridge?

Also wouldn't it be 12.42" ?

[ievans]

Originally Posted by bradland

Also wouldn't it be 12.42" ?

Right, sorry. 12.42.

I'm hardly an expert on the different scale lengths, really. I just collected the info for that template.

With that said, my take is that having an LP with a 12.84" scale is not an issue. It's so close to a "normal" LP 12.75/12.625 scale length that you won't notice it, and I doubt anyone else would unless you told them.

So set your bridge location based on your particular fretboard and continue on.

[Juan7fernandez]

Pictures didn't work.

[Dirk$Diggler]

Hey guys. I'm making a kit build walkthrough of a "George-M kit" for those interested. Hope you don't mind me posting this here Ole' Lefty. It's not meant as a hijack but as a help. We've used this thread on several occasions during the kit build and Im hoping that people can benefit from the cross reference.

The "George M kit" fast forward build thread with no sugar on top

[captcoolaid]

Thanks Dirk for doing this. I have a question. everyone was talking about the neck angle. Is this because of A the body angle. B) the tenon angle or is it the mortice on the body angle. The reason I ask is I could with my limited room and very limited neck skills do the tenon sand and the body angle however the mortise is where I would have an issue.

[armann]

I have a problem with my Les Paul.
When I turn any knob the guitar looses sound and then it comes back in.
It's like one wire isn't connected really well.

Any ideas ?

Thanks.

[Daniel]

A kit without all the problems:

Posted in the Luthier's Corner:

Precision Guitar Kits... I'm impressed.

The original Review:

Precision Guitar Kits Les Paul Style Guitar Review

[jordans0nly]

Seems like I've lost my kit guys…


Need some advice..

[silverkw]

Originally Posted by jordans0nly

Seems like I've lost my kit guys…


Need some advice..

Sorry to hear that man, try to dig up some phone numbers maybe, call his parents.

[jordans0nly]

Originally Posted by silverkw

Sorry to hear that man, try to dig up some phone numbers maybe, call his parents.

Have no idea what to do man, really. At a loss for words. Over two years, money spent on tools, paints, other things. Gone. Also about to get laid off...

[Dirk$Diggler]

Sorry to hear about the kit. On the bright side I think you might have saved some serious money in the long run. The GM kits were a B***h to complete and a money vampire as for all the modifications that had to be done. You might be better off getting a kit that actually is possible to complete.

I had a GM kit made and also ordered a JR kit. The LP I'm very happy with but the guy who put it together swore never to touch one again. As for the JR kit...well George Gorodnitski (George M) never shipped it. I sent him lots and lots of reminders and asked for a refund but I suppose he is happy with all the cash he managed to get before he got banned from the forum.

The moral of this story being that these kits bring bad luck! Good riddence to bar rubbush!

[jordans0nly]

But parts I bought were with that guitar too. Especially the Tulsa MOP inlay. Makes me sick to my stomach.