TonePros AVR-II

[The Rooter]

[FIRST POST]
I'm considering swapping the stock bridge and tailpiece on my R8 with the TonePros replacements. Before I do that, I was wondering if someone who has tried this on an historic model could tell me if their stuff lived up to expectations. I'd also like to know in which country the TonePros hardware is made?
Thanks,
The Rooter

[The Rooter]

[SECOND POST - SADLY, A REPLY TO MYSELF]
Well, I did some research and I found that the TonePros stuff is built by Gotoh in Japan. However, if there's anyone here that's used their hardware on an historic model, I'd still like to hear your opinion directly.
Thanks,
The Rooter

['86]

Hi,
I replaced the bridge on my '87 Junior with the AVR-II. Very simple installation! I kept the original posts and just lifted off the old bridge and put the new one on.
The main reason I did this was due to the buzzing of my old bridge, the new one doesn't buzz at all!

[Marto]

I tried a Tone Pro on my Melody Maker. I left the stock studs but used the TP posts and bridge assembly. Worked good except the TP saddles are notched, which throws the Melody Maker's string spacing out to lunch. So I'm gonna replace it with a stock Gib compensated one piece tail-piece/bridge. Wish TP made a unit with un-notched saddles.

By and large I think I like the one-piece compensated bridge/tail piece design. My thinking is: fewer parts mean less acoustic impedance and more sustain. Of course in electrics, the metal or alloy used in bridge assemblies has a big effect on acoustic efficiency. Sound flies through titanium, for example. A one-piece compensated bridge/tail piece made from cast titanium would result in max efficiency for acoustic transference. Of course it would cost a fortune.

The same reasoning sort of holds true with acoustics. Bone is a much more effecient medium than tusgue/plastic. Hence, bone saddles are prefered.

Good luck,
Marto

[krueger]

I personally love the Tone Pros stuff.

[martin6string]

Originally Posted by krueger

I personally love the Tone Pros stuff.

+1

Got them on my R7 and R8.

[WildeStarr]

TonePros Kicks Ass. I use em' and endorse em', have them on both of my LP's.

[Marto]

Please do not misunderstand me. I like the TP stuff, too. High quality gear. Just wish I could find a one-piece TP unit with unnotched saddes

['86]

Originally Posted by Marto

I tried a Tone Pro on my Melody Maker. I left the stock studs but used the TP posts and bridge assembly. Worked good except the TP saddles are notched, which throws the Melody Maker's string spacing out to lunch. So I'm gonna replace it with a stock Gib compensated one piece tail-piece/bridge. Wish TP made a unit with un-notched saddles.

By and large I think I like the one-piece compensated bridge/tail piece design. My thinking is: fewer parts mean less acoustic impedance and more sustain. Of course in electrics, the metal or alloy used in bridge assemblies has a big effect on acoustic efficiency. Sound flies through titanium, for example. A one-piece compensated bridge/tail piece made from cast titanium would result in max efficiency for acoustic transference. Of course it would cost a fortune.

The same reasoning sort of holds true with acoustics. Bone is a much more effecient medium than tusgue/plastic. Hence, bone saddles are prefered.

Good luck,
Marto

My AVR-II had unnotched saddles...
Well it's an AVR-IIn to be exact!

I bought it from http://www.darrenriley.com

[Marto]

Thanks for the tip, 86. Much appreciated. I'll check out the AVR IIn.
Marto

[neils]

I just installed a Pigtail wraparound (is yours a wraparound?) on an Epi '57 Jr. reissue. I used Tonepro metric studs. 100% drop in mod. The Pigtail isn't notched and I'm not sure if any of their models are. Check them out.

Neil

[hunstamash]

Have the avr-2 on all of my historics. Very simple swap, and to my ear, helped with the sustain. Got them from RS Guitarworks, and the saddles came unnotched. I also have the locking studs for the tailpiece. All of it looks good and works very well.

[Pickup]

Originally Posted by The Rooter

[FIRST POST]
I'm considering swapping the stock bridge and tailpiece on my R8 with the TonePros replacements. Before I do that, I was wondering if someone who has tried this on an historic model could tell me if their stuff lived up to expectations. I'd also like to know in which country the TonePros hardware is made?
Thanks,
The Rooter

I have purchased quite a number of TonePros parts. I use them on Historic LP and SG principally. They are quality items and I like them a lot, with a few minor qualifications. Firstly they CAN and DO buzz if you are not careful. I have noticed chronic buzzing at the screws/saddles on 'aged' versions of the bridge - cured only it seems only by liberal application of varnish. The non-aged versions seem just perfectly fine in this respect. I cannot really understand why this should be so on the aged ones.
Secondly, and I note that at least one other user here experienced the very same issue. This symptom is infuriating because I found it so difficult to track down, My instinct was not to check the thumbwheels for rattles because we are so accustomed to the notion that the bridge is forced down hard onto the wheels by sheer pressure of the strings. So no need to even think about them buzzing right? Wrong!
I noticed mine could be spun down quite freely away from the bridge. This happens as a result of locking the grub screws, which in effect eases the bridge upwards slightly. and out of contact with one or both wheels. But it is just enough to be hidden initially, and yet cause quite a mysterious racket. To state the obvious, it is of course necessary to crank the wheels back up hard again against the underside of the bridge once again. But after many months usage/vibration I guess the symptoms could possibly re-appear. (Please don't anyone give me further worries along the lines of "Well doesn't that imply that the bridge height/action must have altered, even just a little?" Because you see - I have had enough with the 'rivets on a ride-cymbal rattle' - as I use the 'four-thumbwheel mod' as well. Perhaps I should use the 'lock-two-together technique' favoured by some rather than the more commonplace 'lowest on the maple top' style.)
Bottom line? It is good gear but well, I guess I had assumed that lock-down parts would be trouble and maintenance-free. Hmmm.. evidently I always expect too much.